Forskning tyder på, at selv ekstremt små mængder af gluten i hår- og hudplejeprodukter kan udgøre en risiko for at udvikle nældefeber. Tvivlen skal komme forbrugeren til gode, er Green Peoples motto, som netop har ændret på indholdet af deres produkter. De bruger nu proteinerne fra quinoa i stedet for hvede for at undgå gluten.
Af Marianne Palm
Artiklen blev bragt i //mig// en del af magasinet sund-forskning – april/maj 2016
De fleste vil gerne have et flot tykt hår med glans og fylde. Det har bl.a. en speciel vandopløselig formular med gluten hjulpet til med i alverdens hår- og hudprodukter gennem rigtig mange år. Nu har man fundet, at en stor gruppe brugere af det ellers meget ofte brugte protein fra hvede kan give nældefeber, og det er endda, uden at man nødvendigvis er glutenintolerant eller allergisk over for glutenholdige fødevarer, man spiser.
Årsagen til den ekstra følsomhed over for de udvortes produkter skyldes den specielle formular, man bruger i hårprodukter. For at kunne bruge gluten i hår-og hudprodukter, kræves det, at man ødelægger proteinet, så det kan gøres vandopløseligt og dermed blive til en del af en god, vandig konsistens, som vi har lyst til at bruge i vores daglige pleje af hud og hår. Når glutenproteinet bliver hakket i småstykker i processen, kan det lettere trænge gennem hud og slimhinder, og der kan opstå en allergisk reaktion med nældefeber.
”If in doubt – take it out” – Green Peoples motto
Proteinet fra quinoa
Verden over blev der fundet flere og flere, som reagerede på ellers tilsyneladende naturlige produkter, og Green People var nogle af de første til at reagere. ”If in doubt – take it out” er firmaets motto, og nu har de fundet quinoafrø fra Andesbjergene, som har lige så gode egenskaber som glutenproteinet.
Green People var langt omkring i deres research for at finde ingrediensen, som kunne erstatte gluten. Valget faldt på quinoa-proteinet, fordi:
- det er 100 % glutenfrit det indeholder alle de otte essentielle aminosyrer, hvilket er sjældent for planteproteiner
- der ingen kendte allergiske reaktioner er
- det er 100 % naturligt og dyrket specielt til brug i kosmetiske produkter
- peptiderne i quinoa ikke er større, end at de kan optages af hårstrået og virke beskyttende på håret quinoa-proteinet beskytter hud og hår mod de mange stressfaktorer, det bliver udsat for, fx luftforurening
- hårfarven holder bedre og gør håret mere skinnende og glat
Sund-forskning har kigget Green Peoples forsker over skulderen. Læs, hvad de har fundet ud af om quinoa og gluten på www.sund-forskning.dk.
Vi har lagt en række links op til dig på sund-forskning.dk, som kan hjælpe dig til at blive din egen researcher i kosmetiske produkter.
Har du også lyst til at researche i hår- og hudplejeprodukter?
Når sund-forsknings medarbejdere går i gang med en artikel om kemiske substanser, fx om hvorvidt naturlige ingredienser egentlig også er naturlige, kontakter vi først firmaerne med deres påstande. Green People er et fint eksempel på et firma, der har deres egen researcher og biokemiker, som i 30 år har arbejdet i den kosmetiske industri, særligt i den del af branchen som har beskæftiget sig med de mere naturlige ingredienser. Det er Ian Taylors arbejde, der har ført til skiftet fra det hydrolyserede glutenprotein til brugen af quinoa i stedet.
Når vi møder de enkelte firmaers konklusioner og påstande, går vores research et skridt videre, og vi begynder at kigge på den forskning, der er offentliggjort på forskellige internationale databaser. Her får vi be- eller afkræftet, at der er hold i påstandene.
Er der HWP i dit produkt?
På INCI-lister, udarbejdet internationalt som arbejdsredskab for industrien og myndighederne, vil det problematiske glutenprotein i sin hydrolyserede form være kaldt enten Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein eller Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten.
Hvis glutenproteinet ikke har være udsat for hydrolyse, vil det typisk være benævnt ved det latinske navn, Triticum vulgare Protein eller Triticum vulgare Gluten.
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